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A Beer Drinker’s Paradise四川趴趴走之-- 冒险家的美食天堂

There are lots of reasons to love Chengdu. Friendly locals, deliciously spicy food, nightlife culture, adorable pandas, and of course, the main draw for TheBrewGirl: craft beer.

Our Sichuan travels led us from Qionglai City’s Wild West Brewery to downtown Chengdu’s famous M99.

They’re so well-loved that since opening in 2014, they’ve expanded to 5 locations in Sichuan with a 6th on the way. If you haven’t visited M99 yet, it’s part craft beer bodega, part Sichuan skewer barbeque and part al fresco dining. Imagine if Shanghai’s Beer Lady served freshly made Sichuan street food to pair with your craft brew, and you can envision the paradise M99 offers for craft beer drinkers.

​古语云“少不入川, 老不出蜀”。意思是蜀地丰饶富足,声色美景,易消磨少年意志。而用来养老,倒是再合适不过的。而正是这成功的负面营销案例,把我们两个年轻妇女引到这个素来盛产美女,美食和大熊猫的名城成都,一探究竟。

成都朋友说,川菜集大成之处必是成都,因为这里海纳百川,经历过中国史上最浩大的人口迁徙。集各家各派之众长,如果只以“麻辣”两字概括其味,想必是成都人都要跳脚脚的。

品尝美食,自然是要搭配啤酒的。身在成都,要纵情享受两者,不用想,找一家M99就行了。

2014年7月在红牌楼店的第一家门店,到如今四川五店, M99从未停下扩张的脚步。但每一家新店,都是六位合伙人周密考察,精确定位的结果。至于为什么不来上海开分店,他们发人深省地说“上海还没够火候。”

(M99红牌楼店的1/3店堂已相当壮观 One quarter of M99's beer collection.)

One quarter of M99's beer collection. M99红牌楼店的1/3店堂已相当壮观

M99 is a natural part of Sichuan’s food and drink culture. At M99, you’ll see young and old, Chinese and expat chowing down on some kaochuan (barbeque skewers)and qiancai (antipasti).

You might think with so many options for good eats that Sichuan’s residents would be a heftier people, but they stay svelte because a Chengdu meal goes on gradually for hours and hours. A meal starts with cold dishes and continues late into the small hours of the evening, several courses and rounds of beers later, with a few lively rounds of drunk “Finger Guessing” games.

每家M99的分店必与“初恋的味道”烤串铺毗邻,从理念到经营属同一集团。川人好吃,且毫不做作享受行云流水般的生活节奏,在这里表露无遗。

入夜时分,啤酒店里外已被点着满桌凉菜和烤串的客人占据了。我们粗略观察下,这里客群按数量比例依次是:全家老小,情侣,依稀有年龄痕迹的美女们和光膀子猜拳的。冰桶是每张桌子的标配,客人选完酒熟悉地走自助超市流程。M99还毫不吝啬地准备了大量玻璃啤酒杯供客人自取,据说损耗率也不高。店里囊括近千款世界各地的啤酒,而客人的选择也自是不一而足。常态是,在一个风和日丽的夜晚,无论男女老少都能在这儿惬意打发三小时甚至整晚的时光。

如果说茶馆一度是成都文化安逸闲适的代表,那M99的高明之处,是把精酿不动声色地融入其中。在这里,啤酒不只是喝的,是和美女一样,拿来泡的。

What does M99 mean in Sichuan dialect?

M99店名的由来

In standard Mandarin Chinese, you’ll often hear people repeat the verb in a sentence twice. For example, “Gei wo kankan,” is a more polite, cuter or lighter way to request, “Let me see that!”

In Sichuan, it’s common to repeat the noun twice. For example, “Shu qian,” means to count skewers, but Sichuan locals would repeat the noun twice and say, “Shu qianqian.”

Hence, the name M99 for a beer drinker’s paradise. In Sichuan dialect, M99, or “mai jiu jiu” literally translates to “buy alcohol alcohol”: a lighter, cuter, more polite way of saying, “Buy our beer!”

M99合伙人之一黄老板给我们绘声绘色介绍了“趴耳朵”,大抵用来形容四川版的“妻管严”。然而在川人字典里,这其实是饱含赞许之词。一个东北老爷们说“怕老婆等于爱老婆”,或许大家都会觉得做作。但成都男人天生就有“婉约可爱”(这里也是褒义)之态,这从他们的语言习惯就能体现出来。

成都人使用双字词时,无论男女老幼,爱把第二个字重叠,怎么听都我见犹怜。在吃的方面就有“肉腩腩”,“鸡啯啯”,“吃莽莽”,“数签签”什么的。

那么M99,顾名思义就是“买酒酒 ” (川语发音mǎi jiù jiù)。翻译成普通话大概是:“都来买我们的啤酒呀, 爱你哟!”

What to eat & drink @ M99

在M99尝尽酸甜苦辣咸麻鲜臭

A Chengdu marathon meal begins with cold dishes. Here are our picks for best craft brew pairings:

地道的成都一夜,毫不夸张地说,那顿饭的复杂程度令法餐汗颜。不仅有前菜,主食,甜品,每一个类目下面还能千变万化,口味无穷。当然你也要做好打持久战的准备,take it easy,别还没到下半场就把自己喝high了,而食不知味。在M99的这一晚,我们就从下午6点到凌晨2点,足足“泡”了8个小时,竟然比睡觉的时间还长!然后成都人说什么呢-- “其实我们的早餐更好吃”。

作为上海人,筷子在一道道看似红光油亮的菜式中穿梭,我们发出最多的感慨是:“诶,真的不辣哦!”不仅不重麻重辣,每道食物都为追求口感平衡,拿捏着每份调料的分寸。在每一次麻感过后,必将还你更干净而敏感的舌苔。

吃了三轮,以下这些搭配最让我们敬畏以及印象深刻:

1st course

第一轮:冷菜

Enjoy the afternoon sunshine with an American-style unfiltered wheat paired with some classic Chengdu tu yao, or rabbit kidney.

Move on to the mala beef jerky with a classic American IPA to allow the numbing mala to enhance the flavors of the hops.

Finally a smooth and strong Porter will pair well with the robust flavor of duck gullet.

第一次吃兰花豆状的兔腰,还是油卤的,丝毫没有腥味,甚至没什么肉味,只有脆弹的口感印象深刻。我们特地选了一瓶美式小麦,不经过滤的酒体与兔腰质感最搭。

冷吃牛肉是我们凉菜中的最爱,被辣椒层层掩埋的牛肉丝,也掩埋不了鲜美和咬劲。这款典型的麻中带香的小吃,搭配老板推荐的美式IPA是一绝。酒花香气就着花椒出乎意料地完美呈现。如果你在外地吃不到,真的建议买包棒棒娃麻辣牛肉一试无妨。

郡把是鸭食管!!!我们做图的人都不知道,还写牛胃管 (Beef Stomach Tube)。孤陋寡闻如我一开始差点以为这是菌菇类食品,那种爽脆的口感... 虽然不敢多吃了(鸭子没想到你对人类贡献也这么大),但和它搭配的焦香麦芽柔和波特,我们是喝了不少。

Cool things off with a sweet ice jelly (bing fen) and TheBrewGirls’ First Date, a red ale aged with dried dates.

第一轮以一碗冰粉收官,本来我是不屑的。毕竟沪有桂花酒酿,粤有龟苓膏,这两个地方待过,对这种下火补药性质的甜品有免疫力。但成都冰粉甜度适宜,只有微微桂花及草药清香。更奇妙是它的粉质组合- 棕色棉柔,白色劲道,既能吸溜也能嚼。我们拿他配了配自己酿的First Date,一款加了新疆干红枣陈酿的啤酒,感觉不会太饱腹而且真的蛮补的。(妈妈说,赶紧给我来一碗!)

2nd course

第二轮:热菜

As the sun goes down over Sichuan, now you’re ready for the hot stuff. How about some cui rou?

Also known as crispy pork neck, this dish is made from the coveted hundred or so grams of neck meat available on every pig. It’s as much a favorite ingredient of Michelin-starred chefs as it is of Sichuan’s barbeque vendors - and it pairs great with a lively fruity barley wine.

热菜上来前我们都有点意兴阑珊了,毕竟冷菜就吃了一大桌,还喝了不少 。但这个脆肉让我们一下子活过来了,第一口的感觉就是:你TM在这干吗?应该在米其林餐桌上啊!

先不说口味,这肉在猪身上仅有二两,而M99的厨师只用新鲜热气猪,意味着不是每天都买得到原料。所以眼前这小小一盘,若你能点到,已是人品高运气好的证明。再来,脆肉之名,虽小指见方一块,却名副其实外酥里嫩,入口即化。包裹外皮的是芝麻与数十种绝密调味,和谐一致。让我们不禁想,精酿圈各门各派也这么和和美美,多好!总之从摆盘,卖相到口感都满分的菜品,我们配的是也还没到中国市场的Against the Grain酒厂的大麦酒(Barley Wine)。酒体虽厚却丝滑入喉,度数虽高喝起来却云淡风轻。

Keep the heat coming with some smokey barbequed oysters and scallops washed down with a spicy Baird Wabi Sabi, Japan’s favorite wasabi-seasoned craft beer.

生蚝带子,烧烤界的段位之王。我们的一位好友,俗称“小公举”,信奉“无海鲜,不烧烤”。整天穿得跟Trump的女儿似的,但一看到这两样东西,什么身段都能放下。这两个菜,说实话我们都是带着隐约的报复感吃的。虽然没有Chanel套装,但我们的蒜蓉粉丝里有芥末!而且我们还有芥末啤酒搭配!Baird酒厂的Wabi Sabi淡艾,为日料而生,却在这成都烧烤摊又活了一次。

Don’t be freaked out by the next item on the menu: yu xing cao. This ‘smelly herb’ is famous in Chinese medicine for its medicinal properties. The problem is: it smells like rotten fish. Locals swear by its detoxifying powers, so if you can get past the smell, wash it down with something fragrant and floral like a strong Saison or an IPA brewed with aromatic Centennial hops.

如果你和我一样,直到二十来岁才能接受臭豆腐的美味,三十来岁还不能容留他人聚众食用榴莲,那对于鱼腥草/折耳根这个终极考验,你显然是抗拒的。这里最常见的入菜方法是将鱼腥草切至细碎,像葱一样撒在一种叫包浆豆腐的美味之上。在我们看来,无论是英式IPA还是一款清新略带甜美的赛松,都能与煎得恰到好处,豆香四溢的豆腐好好相处。虽然有一大堆排毒养颜功效,鱼腥草这个东西,就不能省省吗?

3rd course: Hot Pot time

第三轮:火锅

Keep the extra cold and floral brews coming for the most intense of the Chengdu courses.

Beef stomach (tripe) is a Sichuan staple, and best enjoyed with a strong IPA to complement the spice and richness of the hotpot beef. Even richer yet is traditional Sichuan duck blood with your hotpot - balance with a mouthful of some flowery Saison.

好吧我们午夜转场了。M99唯一不能满足我们的,就是Jill心心念念的正宗成都牛油火锅。经营到凌晨两点的大龙燚,是此刻最好的选择。从块状牛油化身鲜亮厚重的汤底,这个过程竟让我们两个上海乡下人看得目不转睛。海底捞吃得不少,殊不知成都人的蘸料没有花生酱腐乳,只有简简单单三样:大蒜,麻油,香菜。血红的新鲜鸭血牛肚涮锅都是头一回吃,搭配双倍IPA能提鲜,而清新赛松也毫无压力地去腥解油。

Try it for yourself

不信你就来吧

If you can take the heat, hop on the next flight to Chengdu. Better yet, plan your Chengdu getaway for September 9: M99 will host the 99 Beer Festival. In keeping with the 9’s theme, they’re picking out 99 different craft brews to sell for a mere 9 RMB each - and you can purchase for take-away to stock up on your favorites.

去成都喝精酿,你很难错过M99,就像上海的啤酒阿姨,无需我们诸多推荐。说这里更吸引人的,是店家的美食,又似乎太轻描淡写了一点。或许正是六位合伙人将成都人淡泊的个性(除了啤酒小子Kite,因为他要我们务必署名),融于经营理念之中,才使M99独占鳌头,却又与世无争。就像他们的"99啤酒节",在9月9日这天,挑选99款精酿啤酒,每种9元且支持外带。这样淳朴直接接地气,想来在成都这方宝地,必将掀起一日热潮。五店地址在此,来不来,你说了算。

Addresses of five M99 stores:

 

成都红牌楼店

地址:二环路南四段51号莱蒙都会广场一栋一楼

电话:4008499519转1

成都紫荆店

地址:紫荆东路49号紫荆美熙广场一楼

电话:4008499519转2

成都府青财富店

地址:府青路二段财富又一城负一楼(近肯德基)

电话:4008499519转3

成都科华泛悦店

地址:武侯区长荣路58号泛悦国际2号楼116号

电话:4008499519转4

重庆北滨路店

地址:重庆江北区北滨一路258号龙湖星悦荟10区

电话:4008499519转6

Addresses of five M99 stores:

成都红牌楼店

地址:二环路南四段51号莱蒙都会广场一栋一楼

电话:4008499519转1

成都紫荆店

地址:紫荆东路49号紫荆美熙广场一楼

电话:4008499519转2

成都府青财富店

地址:府青路二段财富又一城负一楼(近肯德基)

电话:4008499519转3

成都科华泛悦店

地址:武侯区长荣路58号泛悦国际2号楼116号

电话:4008499519转4

重庆北滨路店

地址:重庆江北区北滨一路258号龙湖星悦荟10区

电话:4008499519转6

Until next time, Chengdu! Much love from TheBrewGirl

最后,认准照片上这三位“不想出名”的老板。去M99找到他们,就算不能打折,也能体验一把别样的成都情怀。

你的酒吧有故事吗?找我们聊聊吧

Got interesting stories to tell about your beer shop?

wwww.thebrewgirl.com

thebrewgirl@163.com

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