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Battle of the Goses夏天里的盐汽水 冬天里情人的汗

At the height of another scorching Shanghai summer, there’s only one way to deal with the heat: drink some cold gose.

No, we didn’t misspell ‘goose’. Gose is a top-fermented beer that originated in Goslar, Germany, and it’s quite different from your typical ale, porter or IPA. Gose is sour, with an herby characteristic (usually coriander), and a healthy dose of salt, so although gose contains malted wheat, you won’t detect the same hop flavors so characteristics of most craft beer these days. Instead, their signature sour flavor is acquired from the fermentation of lactobacillus bacteria - the same used to make yogurt. Berliner weisse beers, another popular summer brew, use the same lactic acid bacteria fermentation, meaning they often taste similar to gose.

40度的高温天喝什么?Gose是当仁不让的好选择。这款德式经典啤酒,在2015版的BJCP世界啤酒分类指中仅被归类为“历史上存在的啤酒”,但近两年在美国,尤其是西海岸酿酒师们孜孜不倦的倒腾下,不知不觉又火了一遍。

啤博士给了它诗意中文译名"古斯“,但Gose的德语发音更接近“狗择”(相信我,记住狗的选择,去酒吧点它准没错的)。18世纪发源于德国Gose河流域,因为盐、小麦、香菜籽(学名:芫荽)和乳酸菌的混合作用,诞生了柠檬香气,口感微酸,酒体轻柔,回味甘甜爽快的啤酒。

(我们为Gose特别设计的简易评测表,分为外观/香气/口味/平衡/适饮5个指标。The Gose review sheet.)

To even some experienced craft beer nerds, gose can be a surprising and unfamiliar flavor, but especially in the last couple years, American craft breweries have been embracing this ‘German oddity’ and experimenting with their own gose recipes. So if you’ve never tried a gose before, how do you know kind of balance of fruity tartness, herby and salty makes for the ideal gose?

TheBrewGirl has done the hard work for you. We’ve rounded up 10 gose and gose-style beers and thoroughly taste-tested each one with a panel of dedicated drinkers to see which performed best and worst.

Here are the results...

听不喜欢Gose的人说,稍一回温,这酒闻起来就像臭汗。那就请把这汗,想象成你的情人或者偶像的吧。况且就像大多数低酒精度啤酒一样,Gose的建议饮用温度为4-7℃之间。喝的方式也该是大口干,只留下满口清新甘甜的回味。所以为什么要等到它回温呢?

如果你还没有喝过Gose,可以脑补一下一个熟透多汁的菠萝,从冷藏了一个下午的冰箱取出,撒几颗盐,第一口咬下去的感觉。

市面上Gose不好找,在亲朋好友的帮助下好不容易集结了8款,加上两个它的近亲柏林酸小麦(Berliner Weisse,下回分解)。这其中有些好喝却买不到,另外那些我们义无反顾注明了出处。好好珍惜这个Gose横流的夏天吧!

(大家真的喝得很认真!Our reviewers “worked” really hard.)

1

Boatrocker Mitte

数 Score: 87.3

Brewed by Boatrocker Brewing Company in Braeside, Melbourne, VIC, Australia

澳大利亚Boatrocker酒厂

Berliner Weisse-style beer aged in Chardonnay barrels with Brettanomyces Bruxellensis and Lactobacillus cultures

过霞多丽白葡萄酒桶,添加布雷特酵母和乳酸菌的柏林酸小麦

This beer was a crowd pleaser - and not just because it was the last one sampled and the panel was nice and sauced by then.

橡木桶为这款柏林酸小麦增添了酒体的层次感,同时又充满微妙的果香,获得所有品鉴者一致认同。

评语 Comments

“Pretty. Crisp. Sessionable. Medium sourness. Clean.”

“Very classic.”

“I can drink this all day.”

“酒体清亮,易饮,酸度中等”

“好经典。”

“我可以喝这个一整天。”

Not available in China yet.

暂时买不到

2

Chenpi Gose

分数 Score: 86.4

Brewed by Taihu Brewing, Taipei, Taiwan

台北台虎酒厂

Sour beer with floral aroma and sweet, light taste. Smooth and very drinkable.

台虎和imbeer的合作款限量Gose,添加台湾当地陈皮

Only a smidge behind the Boatrocker came Taihu Brewing’s limited release Chenpi Gose, a collaboration with imbeer. The Chinese chenpi (sun-dried tangerine peel) makes for an ideal central ingredient to this gose recipe.

酸香清新优雅,陈皮口感突出但不抢味,回甘明显。在柏林学成归来的台虎酿酒师Winnie,把这款经典与创意结合得堪称完美。

评语 Comments

“Chenpi is a perfect match with the light sour.”

“I could drink this every day! Well balanced, smells great, tastes great.”

“Great summer beer.”

“陈皮和酸啤原来这么搭。”

“我想每天都喝!平衡感很好,香气和味道都很足。”

“夏天喝棒棒的。”

Available only on imbeer WeChat store.

imbeer微店购买

3

Cucumber Gose

分数 Score: 85.4

Brewed by Black Market Brewing Company, Temecula, California, USA

加州黑市酒厂

Gose with cucumber juice.

添加鲜榨小黄瓜汁

The top 3 were tight. This beer won over the judges with an extremely unique flavor palette. There’s no hiding from that cucumber.

蔬菜入酒一般都不会太成功,但这款黄瓜味真的占了夏天的便宜,有点像一边喝着啤酒,一边吃妈妈做的黄瓜炒鸡蛋。

评语 Comments

“Hazy, salty, refreshing.”

“Tastes like an energy drink, but healthier. I want this after a hot yoga class.”

“Very strong. Not so sessionable.”

“Unique but probably not one I would order every time.” 

“酒体浑浊,盐味明显,但很爽口。”

“喝出了能量饮料的感觉。做完热瑜伽喝特别合适。”

“喝起来挺浓的,不怎么解渴。”

“很特别,但尝试一次够了。”

Available on draft at Daga Brewpub on Fuxing Xi Lu

Daga复兴西路店有生啤

4

Watermelon Gose

分数 Score: 82

Brewed by Founders Brewing Company, Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA

美国创始者酒厂

Watermelon is the star of this lightly-hopped treat. Sea salt adds a soft mouthfeel and dry finish.

西瓜味过分浓郁的Gose

Founders may be a household name amongst brewheads, but that wasn’t enough to help this brew crack the top three. It pleased, but it didn’t wow.

创始者酒厂好酒很多,但这款西瓜却让人有点失望。作为夏日酸啤酒体不够爽,西瓜香精味明显,酸咸度平衡倒是最大的优点。

评语 Comments

“Light and refreshing.”

“Great aroma.”

“Not as tangy as it should be.”

“淡而爽口。”

“香气很足。”

“好像不够酸嘛。”

Available on draft at Brew Bear on Jian Guo Xi Lu

Brew Bear建国西路店有生啤

5

Peach Gose

分数 Score:79.7

Brewed by Black Market Brewing Company, Temecula, California, USA

美国黑市酒厂

Sour wheat ale with freshly squeezed peach juice.

添加新鲜桃子汁。

Black Market performed well, with both its goses placing in the top 5. Peach aroma didn't dominate, makes a perfectly balanced fruity sour ale.

相比前一款,黑市的桃子Gose就感觉天然得多。酸度适中,桃子香气也够。虽然不是很明显,至少没有抢了酒的重点。

评语 Comments

“Smells like real peaches!”

“Too tart.”

“Classic gose character.”

“闻上去真的很桃子!”

“太酸。”

“经典Gose的风格。”

Available in cans in multiple craft beer bars around Shanghai.

罐装,上海各大精酿吧有售.

6

Põhjala Meri

分数 Score: 79.2

Brewed by Põhjala, Tallinn, Estonia

爱沙尼亚鸵鸟酒厂

A classic gose brewed with Himalayan rock salt and coriander seeds.

添加喜马拉雅岩盐和香菜籽

The Põhjala Meri gose came in right behind the peach. It divided the judges because it lacked a strong sour flavor, upsetting the gose traditionalists. But some judges rewarded the brew for its inventiveness.

创意够但有失传统,让这款爱沙尼亚精酿成功被踢出前5. 其实也是一款适合夏天的好酒,但缺少了一些Gose特有的调性.

评语 Comments

“I really like this style, without the over-the-top sourness.”

“Too sweet, not sessionable at all.”

“The flavor was a little too light for me.”

“超爱这款,不会那么酸。”

“太甜,不够适饮。”

“口感不够强烈,有点淡。”

Available on draft at Daga Brewpub on Fuxing Xi Lu, or in bottles on Taobao.

Daga复兴西路店有生啤,淘宝有瓶啤。

7

Mikkeller Hallo Ich Bin

分数 Score: 73.9

Brewed by De Proefbrouwerij, Copenhagen, Denmark

丹麦米奇乐酿造,由哥本哈根De Proef酒厂代工

Funky, hoppy and citrus on the nose. Similar taste and tart. Light body. Refreshing.

很没有个性的柏林酸小麦

Though not technically a gose, this style had the same sourness but with a cloudier appearance - a good ‘transition’ beer for those easing themselves into gose.

另一款柏林酸小麦,待遇却天壤之别。其实米奇乐的啤酒都不差,但从2015年之后就泛滥到没有特色了。 这款口感也甚是平淡,让人不知从何说起。但据说它还有各种添加水果的版本,有机会找来喝喝看。

评语 Comments

“Very easy to drink!”

“Easy to drink - but nothing special.”

“Tastes too much like cider.”

“很易饮。”

“易饮但没特色。”

“喝起来太像苹果酒。”

Available on draft at Daga Brewpub

Daga复兴店有生啤

8

ToØl Don’t Gose Towards The Light!

分数 Score: 72.3

Brewed by De Proefbrouwerij, Copenhagen, Denmark

丹麦ToØl酒厂,由哥本哈根De Proef酒厂代工

Blackcurrant, blackberry and others blended in a sourish cream

添加黑醋栗,黑莓和一系列浆果

This beer takes big chances. Yes, it’s indeed a gose, but with its use of dark, rich berries, the result is a beer unlike anything you’ve tasted before.

唯一一款黑色Gose,除了颜色吓人,浆果味也重得离谱,让人又爱又恨。如果酸碱能平衡得好一些,酒体没那么粘稠,或天气没这么热,其实是款好喝的啤酒。

评语 Comments

“The color is scary…”

“Good aroma. Could do without the aftertaste.”

“Very salty. Dark color. High carbonation. Crisp. Caramel. Good acidity.”

“什么鬼颜色...”

“香气足,余味好。”

“很咸,呈黑色。气泡足,焦糖味明显,酸度好,酒体清脆。”

Available at multiple craft beer bars around Shanghai.

上海各大精酿酒吧有瓶啤。

9

Sea Quench Ale

分数 Score: 67.3

Brewed by Dogfish Head Brewery, Milton, Delaware, USA

美国角头鲨酒厂

Session sour quencher made with lime peel, black lime and sea salt

添加莱姆皮,黑莱姆汁和海盐

No one could ever call this beer boring. But unfortunately most of the strong opinions were negative.

这款厉害了,不像Gose也就算了,还不怎么像啤酒。本来以为柠檬系的酸味会和Gose风格很搭,喝了这款大概理解了什么叫物极必反。香菜籽的香气很突出。

评语 Comments

“Not balanced.”

“Very dry. I can’t decide if I hate it or love it.”

“The flavor is too similar to tequila.”

“平衡感缺失。”

“超级酸,但我也说不出是喜欢还是讨厌。”

“和喝Tequila加柠檬一样一样的。”

Bought at Beer Lady, but also available on Taobao (and probably less expensive.)

购于啤酒阿姨,但听说淘宝更便宜

10

Hose Your Nose Gose

分数 Score: 64.6

Brewed by Shanghai Home Brewer, Husky Girl.

上海家酿名人小布料出品

Home brewers can give gose a try, too - just be warned it’s tricky to get that acidity just right!

酒标设计有加分,“沙哑派”商标有加分。谁说家酿做不了好酸啤?如果不是用肉桂替代了香菜籽,差一点就在榜单上超过商业啤酒了呢。

评语 Comments

“Nice color and clear body.”

“Salty but not acidic enough.”

“Too light, but at least sessionable.”

“颜色和酒体都很漂亮。”

“咸度有但酸度不够。”

“有点淡,但还蛮解渴的。”

Not available to buy, but you might get a taste at TBG events.

买不到,啦啦啦,最后一瓶在我家

BONUS

Salted Lime Gose

不计分 No score

Brewed by Young Master Brewery, Hong Kong, China

香港少爷啤酒厂

A classic sour and salty Gose brewed with salted lime commonly found in local Cha Chaan Tengs in Hong Kong and often served with lemon sodas.

添加咸柠檬,复刻茶餐厅咸柠七的口感。

The judging panel didn't get to drink this one, but we found it at Shanghai Craft Beer Festival last weekend, and it was love at first sip. "A perfect refreshing respite from the local humid weather, this beer will please beer geeks and novices alike. We kettle soured it with probiotic bacteria for a day, fermented it with ale yeast and matured with some salted lime."(-courtesy of Young Master).

多亏发稿拖延症,我们又在上周末的上海精酿啤酒节邂逅了少爷的这款Gose,决心一并加入推荐。特别有意思的是少爷的酿酒师没有在这款Gose里加盐,而是用自制的咸柠檬代替,增加双重味觉。酒厂刚刚扩建,这次又特地来上海市场试水,相信我们喝到少爷啤酒指日可待了。

We didn't do a blind or anonymous review. Just like in real life, pretty packaging and a clever name go a long way! But at the end of the day, it all comes down to taste - so use our spectrum chart, grab some friends and some gose, trust your taste buds and drink your way through this sweltering summer.

最后送上一份味觉分布图,用既解口渴又解体渴的盐汽水做双10标杆。跟着它来按图索骥,寻找这个夏天最适合你的“狗择”吧!

Where to have gose in Shanghai?

上海gose饮用指南

Daga Brewpub

100 Fuxing Xi Lu, near Yongfu Lu
复兴西路100号,近永福路

The Beer Lady

455 Fahuazhen Lu, near Dingxi Lu
法华镇路475号, 近定西路

Brew Bear

Suite 109, 283 Jianguo Lu, near Jiashan Lu
建国西路283号1号楼109室, 近嘉善路​

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