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Pub Talk with Goose Island’s Founder 与身价亿万的鹅岛创始人聊天是什么感受

· pub talk

Goose Island founder John Hall was visiting our very own Shanghai this past week - and he sat down with TheBrewGirl for a pint and some pub talk.

When Hall opened Goose Island Brewery in 1988 (an auspicious year!) there were fewer than 100 breweries in the entirety of the United States. Today, over 5,000 breweries operate in the US, and Goose Island is riding the craft beer tide all the way to China, where you can now find Goose Island in tons of your favorite restaurants around Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Guangzhou and more.

For aspiring craft beer icons everywhere, John Hall offers inspiration to keep brewing and drinking our way to the Next Big Thing. In China, where the craft beer scene has exploded in only a few short years - and still has so much room to grow - it’s exciting to dream big. Like, Goose Island, John Hall-sized big. (But multiply that by 1.3 billion beer drinkers.)

So what beer wisdom did John Hall impart to us? Watch the trailer and read on below.

原以为创始人John Hall的亚洲之行会成为鹅岛一年一度的PR盛世,没想到他却来得低调,走得匆忙.TheBrewGirl在临别前一晚好不容易抓住这位即将迎来七十六岁生日,却依然日日饮酒,谈笑风声的亿万富翁,坐下来一起喝酒聊天.

他肤若凝脂,反映敏捷.感觉这几年酒没少喝,钱也没少花. 即使谈到不怎么轻松的领域(比如中国精酿市场, 比如不再属于自己的Clybourn酒吧), John也答得丝毫不显犹豫.我们猜想这是他早年漫游欧洲经商的累积,也是经营一家成功精酿酒厂二十余载,以及与百威的收购谈判中游刃有余的资本.

开机前,我们的采访稿还是不可避免的被"Global" ("全球"到底是些什么人至今还是个迷)拿去审阅了一下,但并不妨碍我们利用空挡聊了几个小八卦.经历了风风雨雨,John心目中最看重的,居然是这个品牌在中国的处境.他说几天来没人能正面回答这个问题,但学到了:"讨人喜必遭人憎,最惨无人care."

THEBREWGIRL: Do you speak any Chinese?

能来两句中文吗?

 

JOHN HALL: No I don’t. I drink Chinese!

                      中文不行,喝中国酒可以!

 

This is your second time in China. And you’re enjoying Chinese food?

第二次来中国了,对中国菜印象如何?

 

I love Chinese food!

当然是爱的不行!

 

Can you tell us one dish that you really liked? And how to pair this dish with a beer?

给我们说一道你最爱的中国菜和啤酒搭配吧!

 

Peking duck. That was wonderful. I would say a Honker’s Ale would go well with that. I would say a Matilda would go very, very well with that.

那必须是北京烤鸭啊.鹅岛的醺然艾尔和它挺配的,不过Matilda(一款野生酵母比利时诞生艾尔)才是它的绝配.

 

Do you think China craft beer culture is different from what you expected it to be?

中国精酿现状和你想象的有差吗?

 

I was here a little less than three years ago, and there really wasn’t much at all. It’s really surprising how much [China’s beer culture] has grown in the two and a half years since I’ve been here. I think it’s very similar to what it was the in the States 25 years ago. The big difference is that it took the States ten plus years to build something that’s taken a year or two here in China. But that’s what China is. China is very speedy about change.

两年多前我第一次来中国,那会儿还真没发现精酿啤酒这么流行.短短不到三年时间就有这样的发展势头,确实让我挺惊讶的.我觉得这会儿中国市场吧,有点像25年前的美国.区别是,我们花10多年的时间做的一些事情,中国一,两年就完成了.不愧是中国啊,啥都这么神速.

 

At this stage, which is more important to build the Chinese craft beer community? Is it about educating the consumer or bringing more good craft beers into the market?

现阶段最有效的发展精酿群体的方式: 你认为是给消费者灌输精酿文化,还是让中国市场出现更多更好的啤酒?

 

I think it’s a combination of both. You have to build. As people start to drink beers, they’re not going to drink the“bigger” beers to start with. They’re gonna develop a palate, so it takes sometime. And that’s what we have at Goose Island. We have a broad portfolio:[from] entry level, you can grow through our different beers. Craft brew drinkers really want to enjoy the beer, so you can’t give them something that they don’t understand to start with.

两者缺一不可.味蕾和喜好得慢慢培养,一上来就给人家喝"重口味"啤酒肯定要吓跑.作为酒厂推出哪些产品也都是精心设计过的.从"入门级"到"老饕款",需要耐心一步步来.精酿消费者和一般消费者有个共性,那就是没人会爱上自己不懂的东西.

 

Goose Island invented barrel-aged stouts, a new style, back in 1992. Bourbon County Brand Stout is one of Goose Island’s most famous beers. Tell us, back in 1992, when your son Greg told you he was going to brew a beer like this, what was your reaction?

鹅岛在1992年就酿造了全世界第一款橡木桶世涛: 波旁世涛,鹅岛或多或少因此而声名鹊起.当年你儿子Greg(时任鹅岛总酿酒师)提出这个酿造想法的时候,你的真实回应是?

 

I was surprised but not surprised. Greg’s a pretty innovative guy. He said that he wanted to put a stout in a bourbon barrel, and I said, “Well, that sounds interesting.” And as it turned out it was hard to believe. It blew your whole perception of beer apart. The rest is history.

说不惊讶是骗人的,不过Greg一向天马行空.他说要把世涛放波本桶里陈酿,我记得我回答"嗯,有意思..."不过好在成品一鸣惊人,能颠覆你对啤酒的所有印象.后面的故事你们都知道啦.

 

So it was love at first sip?

一饮钟情,可以这么说吧?

 

It was love at first sip. It was an experience I hadn’t had before. I like bourbon whiskey, and this combination of beer and whiskey [is] very, very smooth. It goes down well. You get the advantage of both.

确实是,而且是我的人生初体验.我向来爱喝波本威士忌,而波旁世涛结合了啤酒和波本的优点,喝起来柔中带钢.

 

Was Black Friday, the day everyone lines up for the Bourbon County Brand Stout, the first time people lined up for Goose Island beer?

黑色星期五发售波旁世涛之前,没人在鹅岛门口排过队吧?

 

I think we’ve had some people line up before, but nothing to that extent. We used to release it some time in the fall, generally in October or November or sometimes in December, and Black Friday, being the big shopping holiday in the States - there again, my son said, “Let’s do it on Black Friday like everybody else.” Now it’s become an event like nothing else.

有过啦,只是规模不可同日而语.刚开始发布波旁世涛挺随意的,有时在10月,有时11月甚至12月."黑色星期五"是美国最大的购物节日,我儿子又跑过来说"咋们也凑凑热闹吧."结果这一天就成了鹅岛的传统,也是酒厂借机狂欢的大日子.

 

So you must have a lot of memorable moments from your 23 years in the brewery. What is your proudest moment?

掌管酒厂23年,一定有很多难忘的经历.能给我们说说你最骄傲的时刻吗?

 

The first time we brewed a beer. That was a pretty significant moment. To take the beer and then taste it and say, “Wow, we did it.”

第一次在自家的酒厂酿出酒来,这一刻我永生难忘.喝一口自己的啤酒,然后说"靠,我们真做到了."

 

1988. It was Honker’s [Ale]? The first brew?

1988年,那是醺然艾尔吧?鹅岛的创始啤酒?

 

Honker’s Ale. Exactly. What I’m drinking right now.

没错!我这会儿正喝着呢.

 

Still a great beer.

依然这么牛B.

 

And I’m drinking it in Shanghai.

没想到这一次还在上海喝.

 

Unbelievable!

缘分不可思议!

 

I’ll tell you another one. A very big moment. In 2002, we got a call from England. They wanted us to ship our beer over there. And I thought, this is crazy, they’ve got all these beers. But they said, “No, we really want to!” It was legitimate. So we sent our beer over there. And my wife and I went over the next year, and I had Goose Island in London, which is where my idea [for Goose Island] came from in the first place.That was pretty significant.

还有更奇妙的.2002年发生了一件大事儿,伦敦有人打电话来要卖鹅岛的啤酒.开始以为是恶作剧,结果对方坚持"不,我们就是要!"第二年我和太太去伦敦,就坐在那儿喝上了鹅岛的啤酒.想当年我一切对啤酒和酒厂的灵感都来自于伦敦的小酒吧.人生有时候真不可思议.

 

I heard Clybourn Pub [Goose Island’s Chicago home] recently closed down.

听说Clybourn酒吧(鹅岛位于芝加哥的第一间酒厂酒吧)最近停业了.

 

Yes, it closed down at the end of January for remodeling. [It’s] been around for almost 29 years. So it’s getting remodeled and we’re getting a new kitchen, a new brewery, and we’re kinda redefining ourselves a little bit. After 28 years, you probably need to.

是啊,今年1月关门装修.都不眠不休了29个年头啦,得好好保养一番.我们会有个新的厨房,还有酒厂,整体风格也会有变化.毕竟28年前和现在,已经是两个世界了.

 

When will it reopen?

重新开张的时间定了吗?

 

I would say some time in September. It’s going to be six months.

应该是9月,敲敲打打怎么也得6个月.

 

You’re really looking forward to that.

翘首以盼着吧?

 

Oh, very much so. That’s my second home. I love to sit at the bar, drink beer and talk to people.

当然,这可是我的第二个家.我最爱坐在吧台喝咱们的啤酒,和客人们瞎扯.

 

Have you decided what will be the first beer you’re going to brew there when it reopens?

重新开张后的第一款酒准备酿什么呀?

 

We’ve talked about doing a Honker’s Ale on cask. We’ve done that in the past, it’s terrific, but it’s not my decision, it’s the brewer’s decision.

我们讨论过要上个手泵(一种传统英式打酒方式)的醺然艾尔,以前也做过,好喝极了.但最终决定权在酿酒师,我也得听他的.

 

Last question: What is your favorite Goose Island beer?

最后一个问题: 最爱的鹅岛啤酒?

 

Everybody asks me that. And my answer is: it’s the beer I’m drinking. That’s the wonderful thing about beer. It’s the variety. I’ll ask you, what’s your favorite food? Depends on what mood you’re in. And that’s exactly how beer is. Beer is a beverage that gives you something to fit almost every mood and every situation.

大家都爱问我这个.我的回答是:现在喝的这个!啤酒最大的好处是什么: 选择多啊.我问你,你最爱的食物是什么?看心情嘛,对不对?啤酒也一样,每个场景和情绪都可以搭配一款特定的啤酒,这就是它最大的魅力.

 

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